OYSTER 56/08

Dates	From	To	Distance (N. Miles)	Days
Sept. 25-27, 1999	Newport	Annapolis, Md.	335	3
Oct. 19-22, 1999	Annapolis	Bermuda	635	3
Nov. 29-Dec. 4,1999	Bermuda	Antigua	1027	5
Jan./Feb., 2000	Antigua	Grenadines & return	1,600
March, 2000	Antigua	BVI	~250	1
May 10-14, 2000	BVI	Bermuda	890	4
June 14-17, 2000	Bermuda	Newport, RI	640	3
Sept. 30-Oct. 2,2000	Newport	Solomons, Chesapeake	350	3
Oct. 31-Nov.11,2000	Chesapeake	Various ports to Ft. Lauderdale, Florida	~1,000
Nov. 25, 2000	Ft.Lauderdale	Grand Bahama Island	100
Nov.30-Dec.18,2000	Grand Bahama	Cruising Abacos	300
Feb. 2-8, 2001	Nassau	Tortola, BVI	~1,000	5
April 6-7, 2001	Tortola	Antigua	~250	1
Apri 28-29, 2001	Antigua	Tortola via Nevis
May 7-11, 2001	Tortola, BVI	Bermuda	890	4
June 7-18, 2001	Bermuda	San Miguel, Azores	~2,000	11
July 7-12, 2001	Azores	Gibraltar	~1,000	5
July 16-19, 2001	Gibraltar	Palma, Mallorca	~700	3
Sept. 9-12, 2001	Mallorca	Capri	~400	3
Sept./Oct., 2001	Capri	West coast, Italy to Palermo, Sicily	~200
Oct. 10-14, 2001	Palermo	Malta	~200	3
Mar. 27-29, 2002	Malta	Kefallonia, Greece		2

TRIP TO WEST COAST OF ITALY.

September 19th. to October 13th, 2001

Wednesday, September 19th. 2001 After flying through the night from Pittsburgh, via London, we arrived at Naples around 2:30 p.m.  We had been delayed due to the terrorist actions in the US, and were very relieved to arrive without incident.  Mark met us at the airport, and got us to the ferry for a half-hour crossing to Capri.

Jon and Roisin Borrill had arrived on board on Monday, and were actually off the boat visiting Pompeii when we got to FY.

We arrived in Capri around 4p.m. The island is only 3 miles long and about 2 miles wide, but straight up and down because it is a volcanic island. The marina (grande) is obviously at sea level, but the town of Capri is about a thousand feet up on a plateau.

      

Anacapri is even higher, and is another town on another plateau. The island has been colonized over time by the Greeks, Romans, Spanish and English (as late as the 1800’s), before the Republic of Italy was founded in the 1860’s.

We were pretty tired, so we partook of happy hour around 5:30p.m. and went to a local restaurant at the marina gate around 8p.m. to plan to get an early night.  We got back, and stayed up with Mark & Carissa, and Jon & Roisin later than planned, but we were really pleased to re-join FY after several months. She was as beautiful as ever, thanks to Mark & Carissa.

There are several Little Venice folk here. Ocorsio from the Trat had already come to visit the boat; Umberto from the Little Venice came over on the ‘plane to Naples with us; Florindo was also arriving today, and we later discovered that Mario, the LV chef was also here.  The Little Venice should be called the Little Capri!

Mark had already called upon “Chicken” Tony’s brother, Giovanni, to assist with obtaining a berth for a week at the marina, so the “family” was definitely in evidence.

Thursday, September 20th. 2001  Got up around 9:30 a.m. after a sound sleep. Still somewhat groggy, but had to get going. The weather was somewhat overcast, with little wind, but because Jon & Roisin were leaving tomorrow, we had planned to take FY around the island, have a picnic-type lunch, and visit certain sights around the island. Unfortunately, we ended up motoring!

The height of the cliffs that fall down to the sea is amazing.  In fact, at the first turn is a Roman Villa (Monte Tiberio) that housed Tiberius in the later years of his life. He held “court” there, and threw his friends and enemies over the cliff if they displeased him. There was a large cave (Grotto Tiberio), with a beach-like floor, about 150ft. above the water. It had us speculating how it came to be, with some pretty wild speculations. We then came across a large grotto (Grotto Bianca) at water level, with a small dock and steps up to it. Mark left the boat to drift and took it in the dinghy so that we could explore.

There was a shelf at about 120ft. and a railing across it. Mark ran the boat into to hole so that we could get pictures of it. The inside of the grotto, with stalactites and stalagmites throughout, was vast, sloping upwards like a theatrical stage. It was magical.

We continued along the coast to the Faraglione rocks. They stick way up out of the water, and one has a hole passing through its middle, where all of the tour boats go. We thought it prudent not to follow, because we wanted to keep the mast. Another island, Scoglio del Monacone, is reputed to have Roman ruins and the tomb of a great Roman architect.

Following the coast, we passed Marina Piccola which has many beautiful homes, and contains the house that Gracie Fields owned in her time. The coastline continued to be most rugged, and very high cliffs, with various other grottos, including one, “The Saints”, so-called because the stalagmites inside look like a gathering of Saints. We rounded the corner, marked by Fara Punta Carena – the lighthouse, and came across people swimming off Punta Carena, where there appears to be a restaurant and water activities.

On every point of land, there is an old fort, built by the British in the early 1800s. Why they would want to defend a 6 sq. miles rock, I have no idea. We motored up the coast and turned the corner again onto the coastline where we had started. We turned the engine off and drifted while we had lunch – antipasti – which Carissa had prepared. With a Magnum of Champagne that Jon  & Roisin had brought with them. We were off the Grotto Azzurra (Blue Grotto), but there was no activity because of the swell and the fact that the sky was dark, threatening rain. It started to rain, and the wind picked up slightly, so we tried to sail, but the wind soon died. We returned to the marina at 5p.m. in time for happy hour.

Umberto came to visit the boat with his son, Pierre Luigi, and daughter, Serena. We told him we were planning to go to Villa Verde for dinner, and he told us that he and his brothers owned that restaurant, and we would have a good time. We took the funicular to Capri, and found the restaurant. We were welcomed like old time friends. Umberto had arranged for a bottle of wine to start us off.  Franco, the manager, was a typical Italian, every fish had been caught by him, every vegetable had been grown in his garden, and every meal was prepared by him “con amore”! Umberto, his wife, Florindo and Mario showed up and spent time with us, drinking at least a bottle of wine with us! We closed the place with “Lemoncello” – an Italian lemon alcohol drink that Jon describes as “lemon soft scrub”. We got back to the boat around 1:15a.m., but didn’t get to bed until after 2.

Friday, September 21st, 2001.  As you can imagine, we didn’t get up until 9:30, and that was only because Jon & Roisin were leaving. After they had left, I went back to bed and slept until 12:30.  Too much Lemoncello! In the afternoon, Frankie and I went up to Capri and toured the town. Apart from the square, the roads are all alleyways, with only pedestrian traffic. We stopped at a little café on the alley for a quick salad and beer. When the check came, I gave the waiter my Bermuda credit card, and he said “Mr. Hall, you were in the insurance business in Bermuda. I remember you. I’m Marino and I worked at the Harbourfront in the early to mid-‘80s.!!” I then mentioned Florindo, and he said he knew they were all in Capri at the moment. I then went to buy a shirt and the man in the store announced that Umberto was his cousin!! You can’t get away from the family!! Anyhow, we left Capri and walked back to Marina Grande – about a 20 minute walk – downhill, thank goodness!! We had seen an interesting restaurant in Capri, Grottino, so we took M&C up there for dinner. It was great, but the waiter was the brother-in-law to Umberto. We had met Florindo, Umberto and crowd in the square, and he told us that the restaurant was “so-so”. It actually wasn’t bad! Again, we ate and drank too much, and got to bed too late!

Saturday, September 22nd. 2001 Again, we surfaced late, and after breakfast, we called Paulo, a taxi driver with a 1960’s stretch FIAT convertible. We arranged for him to pick us up at 1:00 p.m. for an island tour. He is very proud of his car, and arrived in his straw hat, with the top down.

We went initially to Anacapri, the top village, and all the way to Punta Carena, looking straight down into the water from high lookouts, seeing people boating and swimming in crystal clear water of great depth. This, apparently, is where the locals going for their picnicking and swimming.

We then went back up to Anacapri and took the chair lift up to Monte Solare – about a 12 minute ride, individually, in a chair suspended over the hills and town!! It was worth it! The views were spectacular, and it was an outstanding experience.

We then wanted to go to visit Giovanni, and the Blue Grotto, so we had Paulo take us there and wait while Giovanni rowed us into a 3 foot high cave entrance – talk about scared!

We were all required to lie on the floor of the rowboat, and he timed the swell to get maximum height. The blue grotto gets its name from the white sand on the bottom of the cave, which reflects the light from the opening. Again, the water was absolutely clear, and the rock formations under the boat, as well as above, were unbelievable. Apparently this was discovered, and used, during Tiberius’ time and used by him as a nymphaneum (whatever that was – the mind boggles!). Paulo then took us to Roman ruins, Villa Imperiale Romana di Damecuta, which again were sited on a high cliff. We then went over to Marina Picollo, which is on the other side to Marina Grande. This is an area of very exclusive homes, and Gracie Fields had a home here during her time. Paulo got us back to the boat by 5:30, and we invited him on board for a drink, and got to know about his interests.

In the evening, we went to da Gemma, a restaurant recommended by Florindo – the maitre d’ had worked in Bermuda, naturally! This restaurant was noted for its oven, dating back to the late 1600’s. We pigged out, yet again, and got a table next to the oven (speciale) because of our dropping Florindo’s name.  We actually decided to eat our main course at da Gemma, but then go people-watch in the square for our after-dinner drink and coffee. Of course, the waiter at the café had worked in Bermuda!! Watching all of the “fancy” people was really entertaining. Most of the men wore sweaters draped over their shoulders with expensive, matching Italian shirts underneath. The women mostly wore tops and slacks that were glittery! The younger girls, of course, ensured their navels were exposed! Again we walked down, and again, it was late!

Sunday, September 23rd. 2001  We planned to leave Capri early, but were visited by Giovanni, followed by Florindo and some of his friends. We did not leave until around Noon, headed for Amalfi. Once we cleared Capri, the wind picked up for a while and we had a great sail to the Sorrento Peninsular. We passed Positano, a town that was literally “layered” down a steep hillside down to a volcanic sand beach. The Isles of Galli were passed to Starboard. They are supposedly the islands of “Sirens” in the Odyssey. Unfortunately, we did not see or hear from them, so I did not have to be tied to the mast, or be sorely tempted.

We arrived in Amalfi at about 4:30p.m. and found that the breakwater was not protecting the boats from the “Sorrocco” which had been building during the afternoon. We were given a berth, but the boat was rolling from side to side quite alarmingly.   Worse, the Authorities had closed the ferry dock because of the swell, and all of the ferries were loading and unloading passengers next to us. We had an audience for everything we did until 7 o’ clock. We walked into Amalfi, which is know for its early beginnings BC, and the cathedral which was built in 1000 AD, and added to over the centuries.  The roads were very narrow, and the square was in front of the Cathedral, with tables spilling out from the cafes. We found a restaurant, Café de Teatro, and had a meal, more appropriate to the advice of our Italian friends.

Sharing the antipasti, then having either pasta or meat. It seemed to be a family run business, and was very slow. The food was okay, but not bellisimo. We got back to the boat and had another round of drinks because we knew that the night would be extremely rolly, and wanted to pass out!

Monday, September 24th. 2001  None of us slept much last night because of the swell. Though we got used to it, it was still difficult to settle down to sleep. We got up, had breakfast, and then decided that if it didn’t settle, we would leave earlier than planned. We went back into the town and toured the shops, visited an internet café, and looked for somewhere to put cash in the ‘phone. We checked internet, but couldn’t get the ‘phone recharged. We toured the Cathedral, and meandered down the underground walkways between streets (under the Cathedral!).  We had a drink and a beer at one of the sidewalk cafes in the square, and then wandered back to the boat. It was still pretty rough, so we decided to head for Salerno. 

We pulled up anchor and made a one-hour trip down the coast to Salerno. When we entered the breakwater we saw that all of the marinas appeared full. Since it is now the end of the cruising season, many boats have taken berths for the entire winter. We looked for “arm wavers” as Mark calls them – the dock masters waving you into a berth, and we saw no one. Full room at the inn!! We went around to the other side of the breakwater, and, lo and behold, we found an arm waver. A little marina on the outside of the breakwater, apparently for smaller boats, but they squeezed us in between two other sailboats. They had water provisions, but the electric hookups were smaller than our needs. It is a comfortable marina, and the folk seem very friendly.

We had decided that we were too tired to get organized to go into town, so Carissa made a chicken curry dinner, and pineapple tart for dessert, and, with lots of wine, we ate on board. Afterwards, Mark had been trying to get movies to play on the computer, on the screen in the cockpit. With speakers he had bought in Amalfi, he succeeded, and we watched Jurassic Park III before turning in.

Tuesday. September 25th. 2001  We slept like logs!! It rained around 7:15 a.m. and we were up closing hatches, but we did not get up until after 10. It is disgraceful!! After breakfast Mark went exploring, and around 12:30 we ventured forth.

Salerno was badly bombed and damaged during WWII and therefore the city has been totally overhauled since then. The streets all appear to be parallel, and at right angles, and there are very few areas of “antiquity”. Since all of the shops close down from 1:00 until 4:30p.m. we lost the chance to really visit stores, etc. The pedestrian ways were quite dead. We did a full circuit looking for the Tourist office, and finally went into a hotel and asked the concierge for advice. He was very helpful, and we finally found an internet office, and had our ‘phone recharged. We stopped off and had a calzone and beer, waiting for the stores to open. Regardless, Frankie and I returned to the boat by 5 p.m. and were not particularly impressed by the city.

M&C arrived later and we changed for dinner. We toured the town, but finally settled on Donna Margherita. We were received with some very direct, unsmiling Italian waiter, and were unsure what we ha done to offend. He stated in no uncertain terms that he did not speak English We ordered from the menu and specials, hoping that we knew enough Italian to make sense. It turned out that we each had a salad, and then a main course. I ordered 2 bottle of wine at L.25.000 each, and that helped with the programme. When we got to asking about dessert and coffee we discovered the meaning for Trattoria – fast food. No wonder he was rushing us! They had no dessert or coffee, and the bill was L. 75,000 ($37.50) before tip, so I guess it wasn’t bad, and we learned a lesson! We stopped at a pastry and coffee shop on the way back to the boat and bought some pastries and “cookies” for L. 9,000 ($4.50) for dessert with coffee on the boat. Still got to bed at midnight!

Wednesday, September 26th. 2001  We had to get moving early this morning because we were going by train to Pompeii. We therefore got up at 8:45a.m.!! We didn’t leave the boat until 10:45, because the morning started out very wet, with thunder and lightning starting at about 5 this morning. Anyway, the weather was warm and clear when we left, and the taxi that we commissioned to take us to the railroad station gave us “an offer we couldn’t refuse” to take us to Pompeii. We got there painlessly, without any hassle – except for high speed, Italian driving. Pompeii was fantastic, with construction starting around 600 B.C. and enhancements over different periods until an earthquake in 62A.D. , which damaged the city quite significantly. As they were repairing the city, they were hit by Mount Vesuvius blowing its top in 79A.D. Excavations commenced in the mid 1700s, and are still continuing to this day. It was indeed a memorable experience, and I took a lot of video and pictures to show the range of buildings, etc.

Since we were spoiled going, we got a cab back. We were back on board for happy hour, and stayed here until about 8. I had noticed a Restaurant that had an interesting atmosphere, so we went there, but found that we had gone to a Trattoria again!!  Following our Italian friends’ advice, we ordered an assortment of Antipasti. There was so much, that we skipped the main courses, and went straight for the desserts. We had a nice bottle of wine, and were happy with the environment, and the bill. Still got home after 11, so won’t get to bed until after 12!! One of these days we’ll get an early night!!

Thursday, September 27th. 2001  Well, we got up this morning, and found the wind coming from the North East. The guide for Agropoli said that you don’t want to be moored to their breakwater with such wind, so we decided to delay for a day. The wind gradually turned during the late morning, but by then it was too late to head out. Mark and I went into town this morning to check internet, etc. Came back around 1 p.m. Had a sandwich lunch, then lazed away the afternoon. Mark, of course, did chores on the boat, and had to dive overboard to recover a filter that he had dropped over from the bottom.

We decided that we were not really interested in going into Salerno for dinner, so I made my “famous” squash (Carissa calls it pumpkin!) soup. Carissa made a caesar salad with homemade dressing, and some tasty pasta. We had chocolate “pudding” and ice cream (gelata) for dessert. Mark is trying to get rid of a collection of wines from Bermuda, Azores, Palma, and Italy, so we helped out by staying on board.

After dinner we rigged up the CD movie system again and watched “Finding Forrester”. Got to bed after 12 – again!!!

Friday, September 28th. 2001 I guess it’s fair to say we lazed around after breakfast until after 11. We then left Salerno around 11:30a.m. for Agropoli. The seas were dead flat, and no wind. We therefore motored the whole way. We arrived at 3p.m. and a friendly “arm waver” directed us to a nice position in a floating dock. The marina is in the Old Town, and the New Town is over a mile away. The old town area is very attractive with a beach, and a lot of boating activity. After tying up, Frankie and I went to explore the old town, and M & C went to find a supermarket. We climbed to the top of the bluff overlooking the marina to a catholic church dedicated to “Santa Maria Stella”. The view over the bay, with the sun setting, was very pretty. Got back to the boat before M & C, and had to start happy hour without them!

When they got back they told us they had been up to the top of the bluff and found a Castle up there. Unfortunately we had turned back just before the castle. We talked about doing happy hour up there tomorrow.

We got motivated and went to La Cormorano for dinner which was just across the bay. The menu was total Italian immersion, and it took a while for us to figure it out. But we’re getting better!! Mark & Carissa started with Gamberetti in salsa – shrimp in sauce – the only problem was that they were raw! We started with Carpaccio – which we thought would be marinated beef. Wrong again, it was raw fish. M & C had a pasta dish which they said was good. Frankie and I had Filetto di vitellina, which we thought to be veal. It was actually tender beef, in a white peppercorn sauce, so that was good. Carissa had roast pork, and that seemed to be okay, but Mark had grilled mixed seafood, which turned out to be a whole fish (I thought it was a bream!), whole octopus, squid, swordfish & shrimp! He liked it!! Anyhow, it was very cold on the terrace overlooking the bay, so we went inside and had coffee and liqueurs to get warm before returning to the boat. We seem to get fed, even though we don’t know what we are ordering!!

Frankie and I sat out on the deck overlooking the bay, and looking at the moon once we got back to the boat.

Saturday, September 29th. 2001  Beautiful day again. Arranged for a taxi to take us to Paestum at 11 a.m. It was a perfect day, and it took about ½ an hour to get there. We asked that he wait, and we took a tour with an Austrian guide, Martin, who spoke English. The Temples in Paestum were built between 600 and 450 B.C. and they are reported to be the best examples of construction in that period. They are certainly in better condition than the Acropolis in Athens. The Greeks built the temples and developed the town of Paestum, only to be over-run by supposed friendly tribes in 273 B.C. These guys were dislodged by the Romans not too long later. The site is not as organised as Pompeii, but with the guide, it was probably more informative.

We got back to the boat just after 2, and had an antipasti lunch on board. Relaxed during the afternoon, then took off for dinner at 8p.m.

We had planned to go to Carola Restaurant, which looked like a really nice restaurant in a 3-star hotel. Unfortunately they had a wedding and could only offer a table in their “coffee shop”, which was not particularly appealing. We therefore kept walking, and ended up at the top of the town, on a balcony overlooking the marina. We had a pleasant meal, then afterwards we toured the old walled town and castle. The walkways were very narrow, and it was clear that this area had been lived in for many centuries. Got back “home” after a stop to get Gelato (ice cream!)

Sunday, September 30th. 2001 We woke to overcast skies, and as we prepared to leave the first drops of rain fell. We refueled ($500+!!), and the heavens opened and solid rain hit us for about 5 minutes. As we left the fuel dock, the rain cleared, but there was little wind. We motored from Agropoli going first southwest, then turning southeast around Point Licosa. We passed Acciaroli, Ascea, Pisciotta, and drove round Cape Polinura, where we had thought about anchoring for the night. We had gone through several strong squalls, and the wind was fluky and at the anchorage there was a rolling swell, so we decided to proceed to Camerota, where we were able to get a really nice dock spot for the night. Carissa is offering to cook tonight.

Well, she did! First, Mark deep fried calamari (squid), and that was fantastic. Then, the “piece de resistance” was chicken in batter, mashed potatoes, corn and peas. What a relief after so much Italian food!! We also had some nice wine, then brownie, ice cream and chocolate sauce for dessert. What a wonderful evening!

Monday, October 1st. 2001 We walked around Marina de Camerato this morning. Discovered that Camerato itself is up “de hill”. We did some grocery shopping, laundry, and internet. Unfortunately, Frankie left some films at a one hour photo place, and came back to find them shut until 5 p.m.!! We were stuck, so we went for a great sail this afternoon.

The coastline is really stark, with very high cliffs, and mountains rising from the water, with many caves, not only at the base but also as much as 100 feet up. There are also what I would imagine to be, Roman castles and lookouts on every bluff. We sailed into the Gulf of Policastro, towards Maretea, and back, checking out really neat anchorages in the coast.

Got back after 5, and picked up the pictures without the use of profanity!! Came back for happy hour, and to change for dinner. Going back for more Italian food!

Well, we really were in luck! We found Albergo Restaurante, which had a charming garden setting – under lemon/lime trees. The only problem was that they had weird flourescent lighting over some of their tables, where we declined to sit, with thanks. We therefore got a table for four close to the door to the kitchen, which worked out fine. There was one guy serving about 8 – 10 tables, and doing an excellent job of keeping everyone happy. We were given “English” menus, which we found to be hilarious – in fact Carissa stole one, with the expressed purpose of correcting it and sending it back! The offerings included; SA FOOD SARAD; RAWHAN E MELON;  LASAGNA MIT FISCHES; PUDAING; CIPS; DESSERT WINE ERDBEEREN. We were so pleased to see something that we could partially understand!

Mark had mussels, and F, C & I had “smocked”  salmon.  F & C had lasagna, M had Raviola w/pumpkin & fresh cheese, and I had escalopes, with veg, and cips. We were given, apparently at random, 2 bottles of regional red wine, which was great. For dessert the man surprised us with  a slice of tiramisu, surrounded by a small cactus head, with cactus sorbet in it, a kiwi with kiwi sorbet in it, and a madarin orange with orange sorbet in it. It was beautiful, and topped off with a fizzy wine with a strawberry flavour. Fantastico!

We were the last to leave the restaurant, got home, and bedded down around midnight for an early morning start for Stromboli.

Tuesday, October 2nd. 2001  Left as planned at 8 a.m. There is absolutely no wind, and the sea is like glass. We set a course straight for Stromboli, and motored at around 7 ½  knots.  Nothing much to look at, though we did see some dolphins in the distance. Since the Italians catch, and eat them, they kept their distance from the boat. “Water, water, all around, and not a drop to drink.” So, I had a Bloody Mary at noon!

Carissa gave Mark a haircut, so Frankie used the same clippers to give me a haircut as well. It certainly feels better without a hot mop of hiar. She also says that the hair underneath is a lot darker. I should get it all cut off, then I’d be back to dark hair!!

Arrived at Sombrero at 5:00, and found that we could drop anchor on the North East side of the island – close to San Vincenzo. We dropped anchor in 40 ft. of water, about 50 ft. from the black volcanic sand beach. The guides indicated difficult holding conditions, so Mark really made sure we were stuck. The volcano towers above us, with a fair amount of smoke above it.

Went ashore for dinner, and found that the roads, alleys really, were no wider than about six feet wide. Scooters and three wheelers were going up and down, as well as us pedestrians. Talk about tight! We found a nice restaurant and sat on the balcony looking at the full moon on the water. We are now trained, so we all shared antipasti, and then pasta, except for Frankie who had pizza. We also finished 2 bottles of local wine. We got back to the boat relatively early, so Mark & Carissa took off in the dinghy to the other side of the island to look at the lava flow, and Frankie and I sat on the back deck looking at the moon.

Wednesday, October 3rd. 2001  Got going by 9, then went into San Vincenzo, walked around the coast, actually past the town.  The coast has black sand beaches and many resorts on the North side. We finally ran out of alleys, and headed up the hill to an old church, and then headed back to the town. We got to the square in front of the Duomo  around 12:30, and while Mark & Carissa got advice regarding a hike up to the top of the volcano, we looked around the shops – all two!

We stayed up there for lunch, but then came back to the boat in the afternoon, because M & C had decided to take a guided tour to the top, which started at 4. We decided we would stay on the boat, the climb lasting 4 hours up, and about 3 hours back!

We discovered that the particular piece of coast that we had anchored alongside was the nude beach! Since we were close to shore it was quite entertaining for Frankie as well as me. I don’t know why nude sunbathers go behind the rocks to undress and dress!!?

Frankie made bangers & mash for dinner. It was great just to relax on board, particularly since the moon is full!! Makes you want to howl!

M & C got back to the boat around 11:30.

Thursday. October 4th. 2001  Decided to leave for Panarea this morning. Again dead flat, no wind. Motored round the north of Stromboli to see the lava fields of the volcano. It is quite overwhelming, with smoke pouring out of the top, and the occasional blast of ash. We then passed Grotina, which is only accessible over the top of the volcano, or by sea. They have only a small pier, and apparently only footpaths for donkeys and themselves.  It seemed to have over 100 homes, and I even saw a Bar Restaurante sign, but we have been told that, to visit, is like going back 200 years. I did note that they had electricity and outboard motors, however!

Arrived in Panarea in the mid-afternoon. Were fortunate to get a dock spot between ferries. This island is a retreat for “fancy” people, and the boutiques, restaurants, etc. are all quite trendy. Since it is after their season, apart from the many ferry passengers who left on the last ferry, there were few people visiting. It was easy to choose a nice restaurant and apply our new found skills of ordering Italian food. We walked the town, and again there were narrow “street” which pedestrians shared with high powered scooters and three wheel trucks. We are certainly getting our exercise, walking up and down hill, exploring the towns and islands we are visiting!

When we got back to the boat, a huge ferry pulled in, loading from the stern, and at the same time a very large yacht, a Jongert, arrived to find dock space. We thought for a moment that he was looking to come alongside us, which put us into a panic, but he veered off, and tied at the end of the main dock. We sat up and watched the party develop on the Jongert.

Friday, October 5th. 2001  Frankie and I walked out to the “Tuckers Town” area of the island this morning. Many fancy estates, with swimming pools, etc. The season is finished over here, so most of the homes are locked up, as are the guest houses and condos. We must have walked about 2-3 miles. We are walking daily, climbing steps and hills, so we must be doing some good!

Left Panarea around 10:30 and motored to Lipari. This is a much larger island, with what appears to be a city, rather than town. As we approached we saw gray “sand” in a large quarry on the side of the island. This is apparently a pumice quarry, and pumice is exported world-wide. We arrived around 1:30 and tied up stern to at the public dock. As we got settled another boat “Dancer of the Dart” tied alongside, with an English couple, Simon & Vanessa Roebuck and 2 year old Zack, on board. It was great to talk English to someone, and we had them over for drinks before we left for dinner at 8:30. We had walked around town during the afternoon, but again, Lipari was a normal Italian island town. The island as big enough to have  cars and buses, and a fire, police, and ambulance service. Large car ferries kept coming and going further down the dock, and the Italian Navy showed up with a frigate/research type vessel tying up later.

We ate at the best restaurant in Lipari, the Filippini, and had a choice of antipasti, and fresh fish with Italian vegetable. Since we didn’t eat too much, we actually had dessert. And of course, the bill came with an Italian cordial – a grappa type strong drink. Got back at the normal hour of 11:30.

Saturday, October 6th. 2001  Spent some time on Simon & Venassa’s boat, reading a story book to Zack, and sharing his raisins! Left for Cefalu, on the Sicilian coast around 10:30. The weather was great, but the wind was virtually non-existent. So we motored, again! I’m thinking of cutting the mast off!!

Anyhow, we arrived at Cefalu around 5, and met an arm waver who helped us dock. The marina is on the other side of a huge rock/mountain formation to the town, so it is a 20 minute walk to the town. M & C walked in while Frankie and I got changed for a dinner trip. They came back, and said it was quite a touristy town, with a beach, and lots of shops, and restaurants. They suggested Ristorante al Gabbiano, on the sea front. We walked back in later, toured the town, saw the cathedral (Duomo), and ended up at al Gabbiano for dinner. M & C went back to the boat, so Frankie and I were on our own for dinner, and the walk back later. The Italians keep their roads well lit, so it wasn’t too bad a walk.

Sunday, October 7th. 2001  Special day, with french toast for breakfast. Great as always.  Frankie & I walked into Cefalu along with hundreds of tourists. The town is a seaside resort, and bus loads of visitors swarm in during the day. There were some shops open, but we actually spent our time sight seeing, but we did buy some great wines before returning to the boat. We got back at a time when M & C could take a break from their projects, and decided to go to Bar del Faro, which is a “restaurant” at the top of the hill. Big mistake!! They were a Walls ice cream type of place. If you wanted pasta, which most of the time they didn’t have, they would open the package and heat and serve! The ham & swiss came on rolls with no mayo or butter, or anything. We asked if they had anything, and the answer was no. We ended up getting olive oil and pouring it on the bread!

We went back to the boat and rested, got up later, and went into town for 8:30. Had received calls from  Mike Cobb who had flown into Palermo, and was going to join us. Mark & I went to the train station to meet Mike, and after several delays, Mike got here. I met him and we all met at the Ostaria del Duomo, and had a very nice reunion and dinner. Got home about midnight.

Monday, October 8th. 2001  Usual time of getting up – about 9!! After breakfast, Frankie, Mike & I left for a serious walk around Cefalu.  We bought some small, simple but cute, figurines of Italian tradesmen which we will probably take to Virginia. We sat in the Piazza and had a beer after noon, then wandered around and went to a very nice restaurant for lunch. Got back to the boat around 3:30 to meet M & C leaving for the grocery store.

Naturally, we had a siesta until 5, then after happy hour headed back into town. Again went to a smart restaurant overlooking the water for dinner – a trimmed down version (Frankie had 2 antipasti for example) – and broke up around 10:15. M & C left to check e-mail and Mike, Frankie & I went up to the Piazza for gelati. So much for the cutting back on food consumption! Anyway got back and sat on back of boat, with coffee, until after 12.

Tuesday, October 9th. 2001  Got up fairly early – 7:30 because someone lit a fire on the mainland, and all the smoke came into the boat!! Only in Italy! We left Cefalu around 10:30 and again motored to San Nicolo – about 2 hours away. Of course, Mike & I had a couple of beers along the way, so when we got to San Nicolo and had an antipasti lunch with white wine, we decided that a nap was in order. After all, all of the Italians were on a siesta break!

When we got up we took a walk into town – all 200 yards of “Main Street”, 3 Gelati shops, 2 Bars, 1 pizzeria, and lots of ladies peeking through shades, and groups of men sitting around talking “shop”. I was actually concerned about videoing the town in case I was accosted by men in dark suits for filming their “dons”!!

We actually did find a decent restaurant, Il Castello, which was huge, and attached to a disco in the castle. Of course it was off season, so minimal occupancy in restaurant, no disco. We went there at 8:00 and got a nice table on a small verandah. We ordered far too much food! When we asked for Bruchetta for the table, we each got a plate with 4 large pieces of toast with fresh tomato & basil. We decided to share pastas, but Mike said he would share Frankie’s and mine, and Mark & Carissa’s. Not so, the waiter brought him a half helping of each. We then had salads (large), then a main course of meat or fish, and in Mike’s case, mixed seafood, which was huge. The waiter then brought complimentary dessert and sweet, fizzy wine, and coffee. Talk about stuffed. Then of course, Mike, Carissa and Frankie had to go and get gelati!!

We sat on the back of the boat with another coffee until 12:45, then called it a night. We are vowed and determined to try to sail tomorrow!

Wednesday, October 10th. 2001   We left San Nicolo around 10. Yet again, the water was likw glass, so we motored west along the coast. I should cut the mast off and have a motor boat! We passed Palermo, headed for Golfo di Castellamare where we had been told there was a good anchorage. When we rounded various headlands, and got as far as the airport, we finally got some wind from behind us. We got the sails up and “wing on winged” for a while then the wind changed, so we had the wind on our starboard quarter, so we were on a broad reach. It was amazing how our mood changed, and how nice it was to sail again.

We found the anchorage, a little bay with a square fort on one side, a deserted tuna factory in the back, and another fort-like structure on the top of one of the vertical rocks in the bay. It was magical, and we all voted to stay here the night – even though it is known to be a Mafia coast! Mike convinced everyone, except Frankie to go for a swim. It was cold when you got in, but wasn’t too bad once you got adjusted to it. I stayed in for no more than a minute!! Mark and Carissa made wonderful calamari for starters, then barbecued beef, chicken, and salsiccia and vegetables for main course, and tiramisu for dessert. Of course much wine was consumed as well. It was a great evening, and the swell and breeze died down, so we could get a comfortable sleep.

Thursday, October 11th. 2001  Well this is our last full day, so we must go back to Palermo to get our plane tomorrow. The day dawned much as always, flat calm with no wind. Mark went scuba diving, looking for Mike’s ring that he had lost overboard last night. Since we are anchored in tall grass & weed, he didn’t find it. Mike had another swim, announcing that it was even colder than yesterday.

We left the anchorage around 11, and as we motored into the wind, it gradually strengthened, to the point that we finally decided to head out to sea somewhat, to get the sails out and close-haul out, then back around the point (Capo Gallo) into Palermo bay. We didn’t quite make it all the way because of wind-shifts, so rolled up around 4 and motored into Palermo. Carissa made a nice pasta salad for lunch, which we had underway.

Found a very nice marina and tied up just after 5. Another Oyster (485?) was tied up – Wild Blue Yonder – appeared to be wintering here. Had a happy hour drink and showed Mike videos of Elmwood. Mark & Carissa went out to scout the area and came back with a great selection for dinner. The only 5 star hotel in Sicily, so can hardly wait!

Went to Hotel Grand last night, and started in the bar, which appeared to be a large wine cellar with a stone ceiling and columns and arches. The waiter spoke English, and had both CC and ginger ale!! Anything is possible if you have contacts! The bar opened onto a patio which was beautiful, and overlooked the marina and lights across the water. There was an Italian wedding taking place on a terrace below, and that was quite entertaining.

We were shown to a table for dinner, again on the patio, but covered by a fabric roofing awning. The service was exquisite, and again, we ate and drank far too much – evidenced by the bill! After dinner, we reconvened to the patio, where the wedding was breaking up with lots a kisses, and cheques flying around! The waiter was very friendly, and gave us a cactus licquer which tasted like “hospice”, if you know what I mean! By the time we got back to the boat, after walking down very dark, nasty alleyways, it was gone 1 o’clock. At least we have air conditioning for the last night.

Friday, October 12th. 2001  Well, time to go. Mike leaves at 11, and we leave at 12:30. Mark & Carissa are talking about leaving for Malta tomorrow morning. I’m afraid none of us have warm, fuzzy feelings about Sicily, and particularly Palermo. We’ve had a wonderful time, and this time, I plan to compile the pictures, and put these jottings in a binder for future posterity. Thanks, Mark & Carissa, and “Forever Young” for being so enduring.